“I’ve had a terrible day,” I begin telling my story
I finally had a good night’s sleep and a proper hot shower. I’m back in Ubud after a short week in Java—between Yogyakarta and Temanggung—where it’s even hotter than Bali. There, I slept on half a mattress with my legs on the floor and showered by dumping buckets of cold water over my head while standing above a toilet.
What you’ll read about
- Yogyakarta Arrival
- Sleeping Situations & Shower Adventures
- Temanggung Hospitality
- A Car Breakdown and a Thousand-Year Shrine
- Local Crafts and Ceremonies
- The Long Journey Back
- A Friend From Home
Yogyakarta Arrival
While waiting for the bus, I meet a guy heading the same way and his English is pretty good. The bus stop was not indicated at all and I keep looking at the clock on my phone, counting the minutes the bus is late. Without that guy, I would be panicking that I am in the wrong place, but he’s made the journey before and reassures me we’re okay.
Onboard, he and three brothers who also speak English help coordinate everything—talking to the driver, translating, and telling me when to get on and off. We forget to exchange names.
When I finally arrive in Yogyakarta, a wave of heat washes over me and drops of sweat form on every part of my skin. Fifteen minutes later, Salma shows up on her scooter and drives us to her cousin’s apartment.
Sleeping Situations & Shower Adventures
It’s a tiny room, with a mattress against the wall and stuff all around the room. There’s no sink – the bathroom is a little room with a standing toilet and a big bucket of water next to it with a smaller bucket inside.
We’re three in the room: Salma and I share the mattress, only our upper bodies fitting, while Rhema, her cousin, places a spare mattress between a tiny desk and the bathroom door. Cozy, to say the least.
But sleeping is hard. It’s not the cramped space—it’s the heavy, humid heat winning the battle against the small air conditioner.
Jogja is loud, busy, and chaotic, and the air is so thick with heat that any urge to go outside just evaporates. We mostly hang out with Salma’s friends, eating delicious local meals like homemade soup and meatballs, and talking about art and travel.
Temanggung Hospitality
On the third day, we take a bus to Temanggung, Salma’s hometown nestled in the mountains. Her family welcomes me like one of their own, with open arms and a table full of snacks to try. Her sister Lisa’s two-year-old son immediately steals my heart. Her mom greets me with warm hugs and kisses.
After a few hours of rest, we go for dinner at a local warung. One of the ladies there asks for a photo with me, and although flattered, I’m slightly embarrassed to pose in front of everyone.
A Crying Car and a Thousand-Year Shrine
We drive in their tiny, vintage, red car. In front, Salma’s dad behind the wheel and her mom in the passenger seat. Salma, her sister and me are squeezed together in the backseat, with Lisa’s kid on her lap. The car groans under our weight, so Salma’s dad—a former mechanic—tries fixing it by hammering underneath. It doesn’t work, so a friend comes to help, and we split into two cars.
That night, they take me to Candi Pringapus, a thousand-year-old Hindu shrine. It’s already closed, but they know the owner who opens it for us. While Salma takes photos of every stone, I admire the beautifully preserved carvings and the quiet magic of the place.
Local Crafts and Ceremonies
We visit friends of the family who make traditional kuda kepangs—painted bamboo horses used in Javanese ceremonies. Their room is packed with these horses – they cover the walls and are stacked in corners of the room. here’s a carpet full of traditional masks which Lisa’s son is really excited about. He dances and plays dress-up and we watch him in his glory, drinking tea.
The last stop of the evening is a local who talks an hour full of stories about the village and myths, but he does so in Indonesian, so when we’re driving back home, Salma and her friend explain his stories to me in a nutshell.
The Long Journey Back
On Tuesday, it’s time for me to leave again. A friend from Belgium, Laura, who I used to play volleyball with, is backpacking through Indonesia by herself and while it wasn’t easy with her quick itinerary, we assured we had a one-day layover between her time in Ubud and mine.
Booking the return trip is tricky, but Salma and her family help secure a seat. The journey takes 24 hours, and this time I have no English-speaking buddies.
My whole body aches and I’m exhausted, so when the bus arrives in Denpasar, final destination and also where I get off, I’m eager to leave as fast as possible. I’m still in my seat when I book my Gojek driver.
He’s a friendly guy and tells me that it’s a long drive to Ubud, so if I want a break I can tell him. I’m not planning on any breaks, longing for the familiarity of Ubud and the warung.
Half an hour in, I realize something is missing. Panic hits. I left my camera on the bus.
Tears well up as I tell the driver. Without hesitation, he turns the bike around.
Back at the terminal, the bus is still there. The drivers greet me with laughs and a cheerful, “Aaaah, camera!” I nearly cry again—this time with relief.
A Friend From Home
We make the drive to Ubud again, now under a golden sunset. I tip the driver double what I originally paid for the ride and thank him at least ten times.
I drop my bags and exhale. “I’ve had a terrible day,” I begin telling my story, but I keep it short, and it quickly feels like ancient history.
A little bit later, Laura arrives at the warung. I introduce her to my Indonesian friends, who embrace her like family. There’s no live music this time, but we talk for hours. It feels good to have someone from home here, to catch up on all the ways we’ve changed.
A fitting end to a chaotic day.
Tips from This Trip
- Never underestimate a bucket shower — It’s surprisingly refreshing, but definitely takes some getting used to.
- Don’t rely on Google for bus stops — Locals or fellow travellers are often your best bet.
- A little obvious, but double-check (under) your seat before leaving the bus — Especially if you carry a camera.
- Be kind to your drivers — Some of them go above and beyond.
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